The short version
Record a wildlife inspection by writing down, for every location the inspector checks, what animal evidence was found, where the entry point is, how large the opening is, what damage is present and what the inspector recommends. Keep it in one dated document with photos attached. That record is what you will use to compare quotes, check that the exclusion work matched the findings, and prove what was there if activity returns.
- Write findings down during the walk-through, not from memory afterward.
- Every entry point needs a location, a size, a photo and a species guess.
- Ask the inspector to confirm species from evidence, not from assumption.
- Separate what was seen from what was inferred so later readers can judge it.
- A good record becomes the checklist you use to verify the repair work.
This is for homeowners who have scheduled or just finished a wildlife inspection, property managers who need a written record for an owner or an insurer, and anyone who has been told 'you have something in the attic' and wants to organize what they know before calling providers. It applies to raccoons, squirrels, skunks, opossums and birds in and around structures.
What to look for
The other common failure is missing location detail. 'Gap at the roofline' could describe six spots on an average house. When the exclusion crew arrives two weeks later with a different technician, they seal the gaps they notice and miss the one the inspector meant. A record that says 'northeast corner, where the garage roof meets the main wall, opening about 4 by 6 inches, photo 7' removes that ambiguity. Wildlife inspections produce two different kinds of information, and they get mixed together. The first kind is direct evidence: a torn soffit panel, a pile of droppings, a chewed vent screen, a hole with grease marks on the edges. The second is inference: 'this looks like raccoon', 'they are probably getting in here', 'that damage is old'. Both are useful, but a record that does not distinguish them leaves you unable to tell how confident the inspector was, and a second provider cannot check the first one's work.
- 1Heavy thumping or walking sounds in the attic after dusk.
- 2Light scurrying and scratching at dawn, typical of squirrels.
- 3Torn or pushed-in soffit panels and lifted roof shingles.
- 4Greasy rub marks around a hole in a vent or fascia.
- 5Insulation flattened into trails or pushed into mounds.
- 6Droppings concentrated in one area of the attic floor.
- 7Skunk odor near a deck, porch or foundation vent.
- 8Nesting material in a dryer vent, chimney or gable louver.
Why it’s worth acting soon
- Undocumented entry points get missed during the repair visit.
- Animal damage keeps growing while you compare unclear quotes.
- Insulation contamination spreads and raises cleanup cost.
- Young animals mature and make one-way door timing harder.
- Memory of what was found fades before the second estimate.
Treatment options and typical costs
Structured inspection walk-through
$100–$300 (often credited toward work)
A technician checks roofline, soffits, vents, chimney, foundation, deck and attic interior while you follow with a notebook. You record each location they call out. Some providers include a written report; many do not, so plan to write your own.
- Time
- 45–90 minutes
- Best for
- Getting a complete, written picture before any repair decision
Entry point measurement and photo log
No cost: DIY step
For each opening, take a wide photo showing where it sits on the house and a close photo with a tape measure in frame. Number the photos and reference the numbers in your notes.
- Time
- 20–30 minutes during the inspection
- Best for
- Making every opening findable by a later crew
Species evidence recording
No cost: DIY step
Write down the specific evidence the inspector used to name the species: track size, dropping shape, hole size, sound timing, odor. This lets you challenge a plan that seems built for the wrong animal.
- Time
- 10 minutes
- Best for
- Confirming which animal the plan is built around
Attic damage assessment
included in inspection or $75–$200 separately
The inspector notes contaminated insulation, chewed wiring, damaged ductwork and staining. Record the approximate square footage affected and where it sits so cleanup quotes can be compared on the same basis.
- Time
- 20–40 minutes
- Best for
- Deciding whether cleanup or insulation replacement is needed
Findings summary and recommendation list
No cost: DIY step
Rewrite your field notes into one page: species, evidence, numbered entry points, damage, recommendations and open questions. This is what you send to other providers and keep for your own records.
- Time
- 15 minutes after the visit
- Best for
- Turning notes into a document you can share
Prices are typical published ranges. Ask what’s included before you compare quotes.
Crawl spaces are a favorite den. Check the vent screens and the access door.A field template you can copy onto one page.
Across the top: date, address, weather, provider name and technician name. Then five columns: location, evidence, size or extent, photo number, and recommendation. Leave a wide margin for the inspector's comments. As you walk, fill one row per finding. A row might read: 'NE corner, garage roof to main wall / chewed wood, grease marks / 4 x 6 inches / photos 7 and 8 / seal with metal flashing after one-way door.' Keep the language short. You are capturing facts, not writing prose. When you reach the attic, switch to a rough sketch. Draw the attic outline, mark the hatch, and note where droppings, trails, nesting material and damage are. Estimate square footage of contaminated insulation by pacing it if the attic is floored, or by comparing to joist spacing if it is not. Note where daylight shows through. After the walk, add a section for open questions. Common ones: is an animal inside right now, are there likely young, is the chimney capped, are any vents unscreened, is there a second structure to check. Ask the inspector to answer each before they leave. Finish with a short summary in your own words: what animal, how many entry points, what damage, what they recommend, what it would cost. If any of those is unclear, you have found the questions to ask when the written proposal arrives. Set up the page before the inspector arrives.
Separating evidence from interpretation.
Almost nobody sees the raccoon walk into the soffit. The inspector sees a torn panel, a smear of dirt, and hears your description of thumping at 9 pm, then concludes raccoon. That conclusion is probably right. But the record should show the chain. Write evidence as things a camera could capture: 'hole 4 inches round in gable vent screen, edges chewed, wood splinters below on ground.' Write interpretation as a separate line: 'inspector says squirrel, based on hole size and daytime sounds.' If the inspector adds a confidence level, record it. 'Probably' and 'definitely' are different words and they should stay different on paper. This matters in three later moments. First, when a second provider reads your notes, they can form their own view instead of inheriting a conclusion. Second, if the exclusion work does not stop the activity, you can go back to the evidence and ask what was missed. Third, if there is a dispute about whether a repair was needed, the record shows what was actually observed. Ask the inspector directly: which of these findings are you certain about, and which are your best judgment? A good provider answers easily and often volunteers the uncertain items. Write the answer down next to each finding. Wildlife work depends on reading indirect signs.
Brush, mulch and fallen fruit near the house give animals cover and food. Keep the edges tidy.Using the record after the inspection.
The first is quote comparison. Send the same one-page summary to each provider you ask for an estimate, and ask them to price against the numbered entry points. When quotes come back, you can see whether each one addresses every opening, and whether they differ on materials, one-way door placement or cleanup scope. A quote that skips entry point 4 without explanation needs a phone call. The second job is verification. When the exclusion crew finishes, walk the numbered list with the technician. Look at each location, photograph the repair, and note the material used. If the repair at point 2 is expanding foam where the quote said metal flashing, that is the moment to raise it. Sign off only when every item is either repaired or explicitly marked as not needed, with a reason. The third job is long-term monitoring. Six months later, if you hear scratching again, open the record. Check whether the new sound is near an old entry point. Re-inspect those spots first. If the repairs are intact and the animal found a new way in, that is useful information for the warranty conversation, and it tells the provider where not to waste time. Store the record with photos in one dated folder. Add every quote, invoice, warranty document and follow-up note to the same folder. That folder becomes the history of the building's wildlife problem, and it is the single most useful thing you can hand a provider on the day they arrive. The finished record has three jobs.
What affects the price
- Whether the provider includes a written report or only a quote.
- Roof height and pitch, which affect how much of the exterior gets checked.
- Attic accessibility, since a cramped or unfloored attic limits interior review.
- Number of structures on the property (detached garage, shed, barn).
- Whether a camera pole or ladder work is needed for chimney and ridge checks.
- Time of year, as active nesting seasons add a search for young.
- Whether the inspection fee is credited against exclusion work.
When to call for help
Call a wildlife control provider when you hear animal activity inside walls or the attic, when you find a hole you cannot safely reach, or when there is any sign of a raccoon, skunk or bat, since those species carry disease and handling risks that are not worth taking on yourself. Roof work at height is the other clear line. If the inspection requires walking a steep roof or leaning a ladder against a gutter, hire it out. Before the visit, tell the scheduler you intend to walk along and take notes. Most inspectors are comfortable with that. If a provider is reluctant to let you see what they see, treat that as a signal about how they will handle the rest of the job.
What you can do yourself
The best outcome is usually your notes plus their expertise, combined into one record. A professional brings ladder access, experience reading damage patterns, and the judgment to say whether a one-way door is appropriate right now. What you generally cannot do yourself is confirm species from subtle evidence, evaluate roof-level openings up close, or assess whether an animal is currently inside with young. This gives you a baseline and helps you judge the thoroughness of the professional inspection. Write and photograph everything using the same structure described here. Check the attic from the hatch with a strong flashlight for trails in insulation, droppings and daylight showing through. Walk the full perimeter with binoculars and look at every place two materials meet: fascia to soffit, roof to wall, chimney to roof, vent to siding. You can do a useful first inspection yourself from the ground and from inside the attic hatch.
Simple ways to keep wildlife away
- Keep the inspection record in a folder with all later quotes and invoices.
- Re-walk the perimeter each spring and fall using the same numbered locations.
- Photograph repaired openings after work is done for a before-and-after set.
- Trim branches that reach within six feet of the roof and note it in the record.
- Check attic vents and screens yearly and log the condition.
- Note any new noises with date and time so patterns are visible.
- Share the record with any new provider before they visit.
Ask which animal it is, how babies will be handled, and whether sealing and cleanup are included.Did you know?
Raccoons can open a gap of about four inches to enter an attic.
Gray squirrels are most active in the first hours after dawn.
Skunks rarely climb and usually den at or below ground level.
Questions people ask
What should a wildlife inspection report include?
At minimum: the species suspected and the evidence for it, every entry point with location and size, interior damage with rough area, and a recommendation list. Good reports also include photos, notes on whether young are likely present, and a distinction between confirmed findings and educated guesses. If the provider does not supply this, build it yourself from your notes during the walk-through.
Should I follow the inspector around during the visit?
Yes, if it is safe. Walking along lets you see exactly where each finding is, ask questions in the moment, and take your own photos. You do not need to climb the ladder; you can photograph from the ground and ask the inspector to describe what they see at roof level. Most providers welcome an engaged homeowner.
How do I describe an entry point location clearly?
Use a compass side, a landmark and a height. For example: 'south side, above the kitchen window, where the soffit meets the fascia, about 14 feet up.' Add the opening size in inches and a photo number. That combination is enough for a different technician to find the spot without you present.
How can I tell if the inspector is guessing the species?
Ask what evidence points to that animal. A confident answer names specifics: hole size and shape, dropping characteristics, timing of sounds, track marks, odor. A vague answer like 'it is usually raccoons around here' is a guess. Write down which it was. Species matters because the exclusion method, door size and timing all depend on it.
What if the inspector finds nothing but I still hear noises?
Record the sounds with date, time, location in the house and a description. Note whether the inspector checked the attic interior, the crawlspace and the roof, or only part of them. A second opinion is reasonable, and your sound log gives the next inspector a starting point. Some animals use openings that are only visible from the roof.
How long should I keep inspection records?
Keep them as long as you own the property. Wildlife problems recur, and a record from three years ago showing where the openings were is valuable when new sounds start. Records also matter for insurance claims and for disclosing prior work if you sell. A single digital folder with dated files is enough.
Sources (3)
The facts in this article come from the public sources listed above. Every home is different, so ask the company you talk to about pricing and what’s included. Published by Wildlife Exterminator · Updated September 11, 2026 · How we write these guides